42 Mile Solo Reverse Salkantay Trek - Day 4 "The Highlands" - Peru

On day 4 I begin the arduous trek from Chaullay Village (9,500ft) to Wayramachay (12,900ft). This is the point at which the tropical cloud forest transitions into misty alpine meadows and the first snow capped 6,000 meter peaks begin to dominate the landscape. There is little opportunity to resupply but water is abundant via creeks and mountain runoff. Due to an inadequate breakfast I chanced knocking on a random house and asking if someone would sell me lunch, fortunately there was a woman who agreed and I gave her 10 soles ($2.60) for some eggs, rice, and tomatoes. As there are no jobs or regular source of cash income out here this is a pretty good trade. I hesitate to film people without their permission or if they seem less than enthusiastic. People in this region are poor and live in conditions that have been virtually extinguished in Western countries e.g. dirt floors, wood for fuel, cohabitating with livestock, etc. Also, they are quite aware of the economic disparity between the tourists/trekkers and themselves. Westerners wear expensive clothes, carry expensive backpacks and cameras, and even the idea of flying halfway across the globe to walk in the mountains is an extravagant display of wealth. I never want to make people feel like an oddity or an object of pity, and certainly not feel self conscious about their circumstances. That said, I usually put the camera away and try to experience the moment and connect on a human level.

Once I arrived in Wayramachay I asked a family if they had lodging and they said I could camp in their barn for the night and they would cook me dinner. Trekkers and guides will tell you that there are no kiosks, resupply opportunities, or lodging past Chaullay Village, but what they mean is there is no formal tourist infrastructure past Chaullay. You will pass several family homes (huts) and the locals will probably welcome the opportunity to make some cash so don't be shy. Also, they are not going to quote you a price, if anything they will say it's free so just give fair compensation.

This was the first night that I was really cold, my light sleeping bag did not provide much comfort and the altitude probably didn't help. I maybe got 2 hours of actual sleep before rising early and beginning the final section of my trek.

The 42 mile long Salkantay Trek is an adventurous alternative to the more popular, and thus more crowded, Inca Trail which many hikers use as a gateway to the renowned UNESCO archeological site of Machu Picchu in Peru.

The standard protocol is to begin this trip in the foothills of Salkantay Mountain at approximately 15,000 ft (4,600m) and work your way down over several days to approx. 8,000 ft (2,400m) with the trek culminating in the ruins of Machu Picchu.

I do this trek solo and in reverse, starting in Machu Picchu Village and walking to Soraypampa gaining altitude the entire way while carrying a 25kg pack.

As an added challenge I take the jungle route between the villages of Playa Sahuayaco and Collpapampa. Most trekking guides will avoid this route and ferry their group via bus along a dirt road as the trail is remote, narrow, and potentially non-existent due to mudslides. ***This route is dangerous. Proceed with caution or with a guide.

AllTrails
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail/peru/cusco/salkantay-trek?mobileMap=false&ref=sidebar-static-map&u=i

Buy Me A Coffee
https://www.buymeacoffee.com/ashtrooutdoors

Music
Solo Flute by SaReGaMa