James Biggar

How I Built My Homemade Leaning Electric Reverse Trike - Narrated Version! Hi folks, in this video I'm going to show you how I built my homemade electric tadpole trike with a leaning front suspension. I built the trike back in the summer of 2020, but I didn't explain anything in the original build video so I thought I'd take the time to do that now while waiting for the last of the parts for the new street bike project to arrive. If you're interested in giving this project a try, the plans for it are available here: https://www.resystech.com/cyber-trike---electric-lrt.html Metal Machine Shop's Leaning Suspension Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vtOcou_qXQ&t=10s Buggy Wiring Video - How To Program A Kelly Controller: https://youtu.be/tdG0T_YbwRU QS hub motor: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001825517679.html Kelly KLS72601-8080H controller: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-8080h/ Battery & cell suppliers: grepow.com (commercial, bulk orders only) batteryhookup.com (new & used cells for the avg DIY'er) liionwholesale.com (new cells) My website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Hi folks. This is just a quick preview of the upcoming electric freeride dirt bike project. The design is kind of a mash up between a Sur Ron and an LMX freeride bike. I tried to incorporate the features that I liked best about both bikes into this one. The motor will be the QS 165 that's rated for 5kw continuous and 8kwp, 5300 rpm and 33ft-lb of torque at the shaft. It'll be coupled with the ND72530 Far Driver controller and powered by a removable 65V, 36Ah li-ion battery. It'll have a 7:1 sprocket ratio driving an 18" rear wheel which should produce a top speed of around 85 km/h and over 230ft-lbs of max torque. The wheelbase will be 51" and the rake angle will be 27°. It'll have DNM M-200S forks in the front and an RCP-2S rear shock controlled by a progressive dampening linkage to provide 8" of travel for both wheels. The total curb weight should be somewhere between 120-130lbs. I had to put the street bike build on hold after discovering an unexpected overrated capacity issue with the cells that I originally chose for the battery when I began testing and prepping to build it. I won't get back to work on it until I get replacement cells ordered and delivered, so in the meantime I'll be getting a head start on building this dirt bike. Let me know what you think in the comments! SPECS: Motor: QS165, 5300 rpm, 35 ft-lb ESC: ND72530 far driver Battery: 65V, 36Ah li-ion Power: 5kW, 8kWp Sprocket ratio: 7:1 Torque at wheel: 230 ft-lb Top speed: 85 km/h Range: 50km with fast riding, up to 100km cruising Suspension: DNM M-200S forks, RCP-2S shock, 8" travel front and rear Wheels: 21" front, 18" rear Wheelbase: 51" Rake: 27° Curb weight: 120-130lb Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Electric Motorcycle Build - E-Bike - Gen II, Ep 2: Girder Forks & PDS Suspension In this video I show you how I built the girder forks and PDS suspension linkage for my new custom electric motorcycle. Chassis video: https://youtu.be/DrGj3P0T0JU Lathe: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/384083611779 Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Plywood E-Bike?! #Shorts A look back at the plywood e-bike that I built a few years ago, just for fun. Full video here: https://youtu.be/CEp9iQKta-E Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Cyber Trike Throwing Dirt! #Shorts Full video: https://youtu.be/YMm3yrVhA88 Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Cyber Trike Burnout! #shorts Complete build video: https://youtu.be/YMm3yrVhA88 Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy RIPS! #Shorts 55 kW ME1616 motor, 14 kWh LFP battery, 96V Kelly esc. Complete build video: https://youtu.be/xBl3KHxCyQI Range test: https://youtu.be/GmdRuX4Ji1A Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

The Cyber Trike - Leaning Electric Tadpole Trike #shorts Full video: https://youtu.be/YMm3yrVhA88 Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Electric Motorcycle Build - E-Bike - Gen II, Ep 1: Trellis Chassis Hey guys. In this video I'm going to build the new trellis chassis for the electric motorcycle. As some of you know, I built the original bike exactly 2 years ago and have been driving it and thinking about all the modifications that I'd like to do to it since. If you haven't seen it yet, check out the link below. I built the frame and swingarm for the original bike using 11 guage 1"x3" steel tubing, and it's plenty strong enough but at 30 lbs for just the main frame alone, it's a bit on the heavy side for the size of the bike. I used a similar geometry and came up with a trellis design using 1" diameter and 3/4" diameter by 0.083" thick walled DOM steel tubing to make it strong but a lot lighter, which I show with a comparison between the two frames at the end of the video. When I say geometry, I'm referring to things like 26° rake angle, 4" trail, 54" wheelbase, etc. It's very similar to most 300cc sport bikes, and will subsequently handle like one. I'll share more of those details with the plans when I post them on the website. Original bike: https://youtu.be/gYs_jYUyaoY Chassis jig: https://youtu.be/GpONBdvucc8 Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

In this video I build a rotating motorcycle chassis jig. Two electric motorcycle builds are following this immediately so if you're interested in seeing them then make sure to subscribe to the channel. Free plans for this jig can be found at the link below. Plans: https://renewablesystemstechnology.com/project-blog/building-a-rotating-motorcycle-chassis-jig Metal brake build video: https://youtu.be/eqpRH8Zflz4 Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Hi folks! In this video I take the electric buggy for another drive to test the range of the 14 kWh battery. If you haven't seen it yet, you can check out the full build video here: https://youtu.be/xBl3KHxCyQI I covered a good variety of terrain from asphalt to loose rock, at high and low speed (& power) while averaging somewhere between 60-70 km/h. I think that's typical for most off road drivers, at least the ones that I ride with, and should give you a good idea of what can be expected if you were to build or convert your own buggy. I had my dad following me around in his truck in case I had any trouble, but I didn't want to take up too much of his time so I only drained around 59% of the battery during this test, which provided 49 km of range. The discharge curve for li-iron phosphate is so flat that we can estimate the total range per charge to be around 80 km, which is 10 km more than the max range from the Polaris Ranger XP Kinetic's premium 14.9kWh li-ion battery at a slower 50 km/h. The Polaris has a slightly lower range because it's 300 lbs heavier and a 4x4. I could nearly double the range for my buggy w/ li-ion cells instead of li-iron phosphate because they're almost twice as energy dense, which means they pack twice as much energy capacity into the same amount of space. But the trade-off is that li-ion is far less stable than li-iron phosphate - the former is the type that you hear about on the local news after a Tesla catches fire. I chose LFP specifically to avoid this in the event of a crash or a short. They're far safer to use, especially in this application where I'm surrounded by the battery and strapped into a 5-point harness with no doors. LFP also lasts up to 3000 cycles or more, whereas li-ion will only last around 300 cycles. That being said, I think li-ion would be the better choice for something like a side by side that's easier to get in and out of and requires more range. I normally don't drive anymore than 80-90km off road in a day with my atv, but I know some people who travel 2-3 times more in their 4x4's. That's why Polaris has a 29.8 kWh battery available for the XP too, which should deliver around 160 km's per charge. My buggy, however, probably won't see the public trails again after this video. It's better suited for a dirt track for a number of reasons. The obvious being the 80 km range - it's fine for light trail driving, but it's more than sufficient to spend a day competing in a few 5-10 lap rallycross races or time trials on a typical 2 km track. There are no rallycross tracks in my area though. Not yet anyway. Thankfully I have 40 acres of land of my own to play on, but it needs some work to convert the narrow atv trails into a proper track. SPECS Power: 24 kW continuous, 55 kWp for 60 sec (72 hp) Motor: ME1616 brushless IPM 3 phase AC Max torque (at motor shaft): 134 nm (99 ft-lb) ESC: Kelly KLS-8080N-NPS, programmable Transmission/gearing: chain driven LSD w/ 5:1 gearing Battery: 102V, 14 kWh LiFePO4 Charging: 1 hour charge @ 1C max Range: 80-100 km on mixed terrain @ 60 km/h Cooling: Active air and liquid Regenerative braking Electronic forward and reverse Weight: 465 kg (1027 lb) Wheelbase: 203cm (80") Track: 160cm (63") Ground clearance: 178mm (7") Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy - Crosskart - Go Kart range test update: https://youtu.be/GmdRuX4Ji1A Hi folks. In this video I'm going to show you how I built my own electric buggy from start to finish, and how it drives. I set up chapters in the video so you can skip to the drive footage if you've already watched the build series. If you haven't seen the series yet, I linked to each episode below so you can check them out if you want more details. There's 10 episodes altogether, not including videos of the tools that I had to make along the way, so I had to leave a lot of things out of this video. So, what can this machine do? Technically it's a crosskart, or at least inspired by crosskarts. It's a bit higher than most karts but a bit lower than most off road buggies. It only has rear wheel drive, so it's obviously not an extreme 4x4 or rock crawler. I wanted something to rip around my own private dirt track with, but isn't completely useless on the trails either. A universal play machine. In terms of power, the motor is rated for 6000 rpm, can deliver 24 kW continuous and 55 kWp (72 hp), and 99 ft-lbs of max low end torque at a system voltage of 102V nominal. With the 22" Wanda tires and 5:1 gearing that I'm using, that translates to around 500 ft-lbs at the wheels and a top speed up to 120 km/h. For perspective, a Polaris RZR 900 buggy engine provides up to 88 hp and 60 ft-lb of torque, and has a top speed of around 100 km/h. In terms of powertrain performance, they're comparable. I haven't tested the range of the battery yet, but will soon. A rough guess based on what we can see in the video, it should provide at least 100 km per charge with non-stop highway driving using constant power, although that's not what it's built for. On the trail I should get around 150-200 km per charge with the regen function operating more frequently (more braking = more charging). Similar to the 200 km range that the RZR 900 offers with it's fuel tank cap. Driving hard on a track, I'm assuming around 80 km/charge. Enough for a 40-80 lap race and more than enough for time trials. SPECS Power: 24 kW continuous, 55 kWp for 60 sec (72 hp) Motor: ME1616 brushless IPM 3 phase AC Max torque (at motor shaft): 134 nm (99 ft-lb) ESC: Kelly KLS-8080N-NPS, programmable Transmission/gearing: chain driven LSD w/ 5:1 gearing Battery: 102V, 14 kWh LiFePO4 Charging: 1 hour charge @ 1C max Range: 80-100 km on mixed terrain @ 60 km/h Cooling: Active air and liquid Regenerative braking Electronic forward and reverse Weight: 465 kg (1027 lb) Wheelbase: 203cm (80") Track: 160cm (63") Ground clearance: 178mm (7") Chapters: 0:00 - Chassis 2:53 - Suspension & steering 7:20 - Powertrain 8:20 - Body panels 10:55 - Bucket, harness & brakes 15:09 - Cooling system 17:12 - Paint 19:00 - Wiring 23:37 - Test drive MUSIC 'Dark Revelations' by Overdrive Studios: https://audiojungle.net/item/dark-revelations-slow/8353040 'Cinematic Rock Trailer' by soundride: https://audiojungle.net/item/cinematic-rock-trailer-background/37990069 VIDEO LINKS Chassis: https://youtu.be/QO7OHrW5oYM Suspension: https://youtu.be/5Rd2FUzbS0I Powertrain: https://youtu.be/W6elFcrIYBY Body panels: https://youtu.be/kinq3E5XtHw Battery: https://youtu.be/tL3TscrjgTA Seat and brakes: https://youtu.be/O4Aaw649X6w Cooling system: https://youtu.be/WYCuETxl5Rw Dashboard and charge port: https://youtu.be/H8e--NJaFrQ Limited slip conversion: https://youtu.be/_z0ByDjlHTI Paint: https://youtu.be/4R_BrgWm0lM Wiring: https://youtu.be/tdG0T_YbwRU Sheet metal brake: https://youtu.be/eqpRH8Zflz4 Vacuum former: https://youtu.be/hdH8LSn1va8 Tube Bender: https://www.kakaindustrial.ca/products/kaka-tb-3-hand-pipe-bender-manual-pipe-bender POWERTRAIN COMPONENTS ME1616 motor, KLS96601-8080IPS controller with sin/cosine sensor, 600A main contactor, and throttle: contact Fany to match and price at sales@kellycontroller.com 32650 LiFePo4 battery cells: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-2v-lifepo4-32650-6000mah-battery_1600204982827.html 300A Daly BMS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002554042155.html F series charger: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/f-series-charger/ Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 10: Wiring & Programming Kelly Controller - ME1616 Motor In this video I show you how I wired and programmed the Kelly controller & ME1616 motor in my homemade electric buggy. If you have any questions, post them below. BMS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002554042155.html Controller: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-8080i-ips/ Motor: contact Fany at sales@kellycontroller.com when you order the controller and he will drop ship the ME1616 motor to you as well - they don't keep the motor in stock or advertise them on their site, but they can get you one. They can also supply the contactor, isolated converter, throttle and a small charger too, among other things. User program and sine/cosine monitoring software (click KLS category for the IPS controller): https://kellycontroller.com/support/ First test drive: https://youtu.be/Q-oB4I187oM Making the battery modules: https://youtu.be/tL3TscrjgTA Building the vacuum former: https://youtu.be/hdH8LSn1va8 Website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Just a quick update to show that wiring and programming my homemade buggy was a success! The charger died on me so I didn't have much juice to work with, but I managed to get a minute or two of driving in to check a few things. I'm just babying the throttle at around 20-30 km/h so the voltage doesn't drop so far that the bms cuts power. I've also got a slightly wobbly brake disc or caliper in the back, you can probably hear it rubbing. Going to put it on stands this weekend to check it out, make some adjustments and get the body panels back on it while I wait for the new charger to arrive. I have no idea why the other one died, but I'll create a proper drive video for you folks once the batteries are topped up. Got a DJI Mini to help too :) Enjoy your weekend! Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 9: Paint & Reassembly We're nearing the end of this homemade electric buggy build series, folks. In this video I paint the components and reassemble it. In the next and final video, I will wire it up and take it for a drive. Be sure you're subscribed and notifications are turned on so you don't miss it! Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Buggy - Electric Crosskart: Limited Slip Differential Kit Day 1 of reassembly after painting. The first thing I needed to do before the wheels could go back on the electric buggy was to install the differential. But I needed to make a modification to it that I didn't have the chance to do in the previous drivetrain video. In this video I show how I installed a poor man's limited slip differential kit in the Honda CR-V open differential that I'm using for the electric buggy. If you don't know what a limited slip differential is or how it works, check out the video below from Lesics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeLm7wHvdxQ This modification works like a clutch pack to cause both rear wheels to lock up like a solid rear axle and dig in for more traction if one tire starts to spin too much or I want to fool around and do some donuts, but it'll also allow the differential to function like an open diff so that each wheel can turn at different speeds when cornering normally to prevent understeering. I had to do some light grinding and sanding on the gear faces to make things work, but only needed to remove ~0.2-0.3mm so there's no risk of weakening them, but if you do this then keep in mind that the device works by gripping against the bearing faces, so the flatter they are, the better. LSD kit: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/324197731749 Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Super quick update. Reassembly and wiring for the electric crosskart buggy starts today! I'll have the first of the final two videos for the build series ready to watch here on April 10th at 9 AM AST. Make sure you're subscribed and notifications are turned on so you don't miss the test drive! WATCH Electric Crosskart Buggy Build Series: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLdO3Wk-XPC_BYIyKzLDE410YO1IWXkHCI Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 8: Dashboard & Charge Port In this video I finish fitting the rest of the components in my homemade buggy and replace some of the original steel panels with ABS to lighten things up a bit. I also made a custom charge port for the electric buggy using my new Ender 3 V2 3D printer and an Anderson connector. The 3D printed charge port was made with PLA so I'm not sure if I'll keep it in the kart as is for long. I could sand it down and polish it up to use it to make a mold for casting something more rugged with resin and fiberglass, or I could print another out of ABS or a carbon fiber infused filament of some kind. We'll see what happens after the paint goes on. The next time you see this kart, it's going to look a lot different. A link for the charge port STL and all of the parts that I used in this video are below. Charge Port STL: https://resystech.creator-spring.com/listing/ev-charge-port-3d-printing-m DIY buggy playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLdO3Wk-XPC_BYIyKzLDE410YO1IWXkHCI SB175 Anderson connector: https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p/WWG3BY23 Kill switch: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/battery-kill-switch/ Key switch: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/301830872932 GPS speedometer: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/294356859047 Thermostat: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/265484794555 Power meter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002737694253.html USB port: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/265484794555 Rocker switch: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/234087083335 96V-12V isolated converter: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kelly-dcdc-converter/ 300A 32S Daley BMS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002554042155.html KLS96601-8080I/IPS controller (w/ sine/cosine sensors): https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-8080i-ips-high-power-opto-isolated-sinusoidal-wave-brushless-motor-controller-72v-144v-200a-700a/ Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 7: Cooling System In this video I install the cooling system for the electric motor in my homemade electric buggy. As some of you know, the battery is sized large enough to only require forced air cooling, but the motor requires liquid cooling (a glycol/water solution). To do that, I'm using an 8x12" radiator with a 12V, 7" fan from Derale Performance. The glycol solution will be circulated by a Flojet 12V general purpose pump with a flow rate up to 10 L/m. I made a reservoir/overflow container from 3" ABS pipe, an end cap for the bottom, a screw cap for the top and barbed fittings for connecting the heater hoses. I also incorporated a filter between the reservoir and pump to keep particulates out of the system. Links for all of the parts that I used can be found below with the exception of the ABS pipe and fittings and heater hoses. You can source those at a local home building supply store like Home Depot. Electricmotorsport.com also sells a complete kit with the pump, filter and radiator together to make things simple, but for a slightly higher price. Radiator: https://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/cooling/lck/radiator-with-1-2-inch-hose-barb-inlets-and-electric-fan.html Pump & filter: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/301739981256 Complete kit: https://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/cooling/lck/liquid-cooling-kit-for-dlc-motors-and-controllers.html Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 6: Bucket Seat, Harness & Brakes Welcome back to the electric homemade buggy build series! In this video I install the bucket seat from Scat Enterprises, a 5 point safety harness, and a handbrake kit to operate the dual hydraulic calipers on the back brake rotor for parking and general foolishness. Links for the parts that I used in this video are below. If you have any questions or comments, you know where to post them. I read them all. Ep 7 will be ready for you folks in a few days and will show the installation of the cooling system, fitting the batteries in the cabin, and finishing some other random stuff to prep for paint. Thanks for stopping by! Seat: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/325119676950 Harness: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233968286890 Handbrake kit: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/312617105002 Rear calipers: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/283066433127 Brake master cylinder: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/143716265990 Electric throttle: https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kelly-0-5v-throttle-pedal/ Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 5: Lithium Battery Build - LiFePO4 In this video I make the LiFePO4 battery modules for my homemade electric buggy and seal them in custom ABS plastic cases that I made with the new vacuum former that I built last month. Check out the module build article for more details about the cells and other components that I used, how I used them and why: https://www.resystech.com/project-blog/how-i-made-sealed-lithium-battery-modules Vacuum former build video: https://youtu.be/hdH8LSn1va8 Electric crosskart build series: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLdO3Wk-XPC_BYIyKzLDE410YO1IWXkHCI Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s RST website: https://www.resystech.com Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Vacuum Former Build - Plastic Battery Case In this video I build a vacuum former and make a plastic battery case with it, the first of 32 for the electric buggy lithium battery build. You can read more details about how I did it and what I learned in the process or download the plans by checking out the links below. In the next video I'll show you how I made the battery modules and sealed them in the ABS cases that I formed. Build article: https://renewablesystemstechnology.com/project-blog/how-i-built-a-vacuum-former Plans: https://resystech.creator-spring.com/listing/vacuum-former-plans Electric crosskart build series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO7OHrW5oYM&list=PLdO3Wk-XPC_BYIyKzLDE410YO1IWXkHCI Lithium module build: https://youtu.be/tL3TscrjgTA More tool builds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXQnydST9fw&list=PLdO3Wk-XPC_DcMgUM8GEPAOcMML1tCdvG Website: https://resystech.com Facebook: https://facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Hey folks. I've just got a quick build video for you today. In this one, I make a hammer crimper for crimping lugs to the cables that I'm using for the electric crosskart battery. A hammer crimper is a pretty common tool and is reasonably affordable, costing around $30-$50. But, most of you know what I'm about. Why spend the $ and wait 2-3 weeks for delivery when I can make it out of scraps in 20-30 minutes and get straight to work crimping cables? I wrote a short build article explaining what I did in more detail: https://renewablesystemstechnology.com/project-blog/making-a-hammer-crimper A few side notes about crimping copper lugs to battery cables - as with everything these days, there's a silly debate about whether to solder a lug and cable or not. Some people believe solder is the only way, while most electricians simply crimp most cable and lug connections. But there are circumstances that apply. There's nothing wrong with soldering your lugs, if you have the means to provide enough heat to do so without damaging the cable insulation and you use a rosin core solder, NOT acid core (that's corrosive to rubber and plastics and is used for copper plumbing, not electrical). That's the problem with soldering. It makes a solid, sealed connection that won't corrode, but the thicker the cable is the more heat it takes to wet it until you get to a point where a standard soldering iron isn't up to the task. Crimping will provide a bond that's as strong if not stronger than solder in some cases, but if tinned copper wire/cable isn't used (which is expensive), then some precaution needs to be taken to prevent the cable from corroding inside the lug later, which all copper does when it's exposed to moisture in the air. You can sand a bare copper conductor clean and shiny, but it will eventually turn green (sooner or later depending on RH levels) and could affect the connection if the mating surfaces aren't married perfectly and air tight. To prevent this, you should use tinned copper lugs, not bare copper lugs. Tinned copper lugs have, of course, a coating of tin on them to seal the copper from the air and they aren't too expensive. The next thing you should use to protect the connection is heat shrink tubing. But not just any kind - you need the stuff that has a layer of glue on the inside surface. It's like hot glue, when heated this will make the final seal between the shrink tubing and the cable/lug connection to keep air and moisture out. Windy Nation sells a variety of battery and welding cables, lugs, shrink tubing and loads of wind and solar gear at windynation.com I'll have the next video for the crosskart build series uploaded in roughly a week, give or take a couple of days. I'll be assembling the P groups for the 11.5 kWh LiFePo4 battery and test fitting them in the crosskart cabin with aluminum cases and the new bucket racing seat from Scat Enterprises. I may test fit the cooling system while I'm at it, if the pump arrives in time. Website: https://www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Homemade Electric Buggy, Ep 4: Aluminum Body Panels In this video I make the aluminum body panels for my homemade electric buggy. Check out the build article for more details: https://renewablesystemstechnology.com/project-blog/building-an-e-crosskart-buggy-body-panels Electric motorbike build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYs_jYUyaoY&t=6s Support RST on Patreon or Youtube and earn membership perks: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology

Get the plans: https://www.resystech.com/sheet-metal-brake.html Check out the build article: https://www.resystech.com/howtobuildasheetmetalbrake.html I needed a heavy duty sheet metal brake to bend the 1/8" (3mm) thick aluminum that I chose for the crosskart body panels, so I made one with scrap steel angle and tubing, lawnmower seat springs and threaded rod. It's a common DIY design, but I beefed it up for my needs. So far I've bent 1/8" thick aluminum @ 24 (610mm) wide successfully. No signs of stress on the brake, but it took some muscle to do. I'm sure it can bend a 36" (914mm) wide sheet with hydraulics or handle extensions for more leverage. I'm going to have to build a proper steel table to mount it to first, otherwise I'll probably rip the end off the wooden table that it's mounted to now. Support RST on Patreon or Youtube to get rid of the ads and earn membership perks like access to all project plans featured on resystech.com: http://www.patreon.com/resystech https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWg/join Follow RST on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology