Next Life Garage

In this episode I will be installing a relay for the radiator fans. I used an old switch and wires from another project to run the fans and finally burned it up after several years of use. I will be running a new power source for the relay to the fans and using the existing wires to switch the relay on and off. Hopefully things will go as planned so I can get her back up and running so we can finally go out and do some tuning on it. It should be a pretty straight forward operation for this one!

In this episode I will be reinstalling the front final drive assemblies on the Yanmar 2610-D. Hopefully things will go as planned, but you never know when you are working with 40 year old equipment. Installing final drives on most 4wd tractors should be very similar to this if you are looking for some information on how it is done. There may be slight differences in how the steering controls are set up. Join me on this adventure to see if we can get her steering once again!

Today I will be tracking down an A/C leak on Big Karen. It is getting hot here in NC and I need BK to keep the cab cool for me. I will be using some readily available tools and materials from your local parts store to check on things. Stick around for a little history on this rig and a quick leak check of the A/C system. Hopefully the leak will show itself so we can get it addressed and get the cab cooled back down for these hot summer days to come.

In this episode I will be replacing the A/C compressor and P/S pump on the jeep to try to eliminate the block noise that I tracked down on the previous Jeep video. Parts have come in and I am ready to get this done so I will have some cool air in the Jeep during the dog days of summer here in the South. The old A/C compressor was a 4 seasons brand that didn't last very long. This one does not have a brand name to it, but says it is a new non remanufactured unit, probably manufactured in China. I guess we will find out how long it will last.

Today I will be assembling the front final drive assemblies for our Yanmar 2610-D 4WD tractor. It is a two part process since I will assemble the final drive hub to the case without the seal first to check backlash. Once backlash is properly set, I will disassemble it and put the seals in and do a final reassembly. The reason for not putting the seal in first is to not ruin it if backlash is not within spec once assembled. If backlash is out of spec, one would have to disassemble and add or remove shims and do another check. We are getting her ready to send on to her next life as she was not heady duty enough for what we were asking her to do at the future site for Next Life Garage.

In today's episode I will be addressing the "quitters" on the font end, a transmission leak, hopefully, and some of the electrical problems that she is plagued with. I am trying to get her road worthy enough to drive around and show off a little to see if we can find a buyer to take her on to her Next Life!

In this episode we will be cleaning up the interior of Aunt Buck, our 1966 Buick Special. The interior was in overall pretty good condition. The headliner has some mold and mildew growth from the leaks we found cleaning up the exterior. The carpet is also in pretty bad shape from the leaks. We'll see how clean she comes. We also found some rust and ventilation holes once we removed everything from the interior. Nothing major, mostly surface rust and small holes. We will address those issues in another episode.

In this episode we will be taking the pressure washer and steel wool to Aunt Buck. We drove this one home after 7 or 8 years of sitting. She is a dirty one and I am excited to see how clean she will come.

This one sat for 7 years in a storage unit and 1-1/2 years in an overflow lot for a towing and recovery company. We go to High Point and try to get this one running and road worthy enough to drive it 30 miles home. Come join us on the adventure.

In this episode I will attempt to chase down some engine noise that has shown itself lately. It kind of sounds like a loose flexplate would, but we know from the trackbar install that is not the case this time. I will be using an old shade tree mechanic's trick to listen the the auxiliary drives to see if one or more of them are the culprit. Once we figure out what is going on we'll get some parts ordered and get her fixed back up so I can get her back on the road.

In this episode we will be replacing the trackbar on a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport and trying to narrow down an engine noise that has developed. Trackbar replacement will be the same or very similar for any solid front axle vehicle.

In this episode we will be recalibrating the AEM FIC/6 that I am using to manage fuel and timing for the turbo that was added to this factory naturally aspirated engine. After sitting for so long waiting on the machine shop to finish with the block and head the controller managed to gain 500 rpm or so. I'll show you where the FIC is located in the car and give you a brief overview on the computer what I will be doing to get things set back up. Note the car was brought to operating temperature prior filming this video. This would need to occur to make sure your calibration is accurate. www.aemelectronics.com/products/programmable-engine-management-systems/fuel-ignition-controller/fic-6

In today's episode I am replacing the front main seal on the 240. I don't get in to a whole lot of detail in this video about where it is and what it is, but it is located in the lower timing cover behind the main drive pully on the front of the crank. It is not a hard job to tackle on this car as the clutch fan and radiator shroud are not on it. I have replaced all of that with an electrical fan unit. Basically remove all of the belts, remove the bolt holding the pully on and pop the old seal out and knock the new one in. See the timing tensioner video for tips on removing the bolt from the pully!

We will be replacing timing tensioners on a 97 Nissan 240sx with a turbo ka24de. Once we finally got the bare block and assembled head back from the machine shop and got it reassembled and reinstalled in the car. We discovered we had unusually loud timing chain rattle while doing the initial "bench" break in. We are going to attempt to eliminate the rattle by replacing the aftermarket tensioners with some Nissan OE tensioners. Hopefully it will work out to our favor, but it doesn't always work out that way.

In this episode we will be attacking the base idle and timing on the turbo ka24de after the engine rebuild. Prior to the rebuild I tried to tune out the bad cylinder with the fuel & ignition controller. In the process of doing that I got the idle air valve and throttle position sensors all out of wack. I'll show you where these sensors and controllers are and what I will be doing to get things set back up the way they are suppose to be. It is not difficult to do, you just need some basic tools and a timing light. You can pick up a timing light on the outerweb or at your local parts store for around $40. I use the Innova 3568 model.