ARichards0729

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Jegs Oil Pan & Jegs one piece gasket leaked on the not dipstick side where the other side dipstick hole and at one of the bolt holes. Longer screw, solid cupped washer, cork O ring and some RTV fitted to see if I can stop it. This was the test. I did note the other side was leaking a bit so maybe a bolt hole is leaking there too? I'll add some dye and see about that and I also want to check the valve covers as they are new... test drive coming up and we'll see but I am in this fight to stay! Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

When I put the tandem brake system on the 1957 GMC the rear hard line was 1/4 but the OEM was 3/16 so the new 1/4 line didn't fit the OEM rubber hose going to the axle T fitting. To do a temp fix I drilled a 3/16 end fitting to 1/4 but that makes the fitting too weak. I got the proper brass fitting to go from 1/4 end to the 3/16 hose. I'd guess one could have gotten a rubber hose to just fit the 1/4 hard line but this is what I had and it works fine and now is OEM safe. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

1978 Chevy 305 small block.... SBC as the say get cranked to prime the oil pump. Finally torqued the oil pan with the one piece gasket. It takes several goings over to get it even. Had to trim a socket to get it to work but that happens. To get the pump to prime quickly I filled the K&N HP-2002 to the brim and I do think that is the best way. I put in 5 quarts of oil but with the new pan, thicker gasket that brings the pan down and all of that I added 1/2 a quart. This also means you may need to put a new mark on your dip stick. I unplugged the fuel pump and cranked it until I got pressure and then started it... that is the time to check the oil level and mark it. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

All bearing fitted, Oil Pump fitted, pick up fitted, new oil pan does not fit easy so a main member will need to be removed to fit the new pan, cambot will be used later but not now. Hope it works! Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

John got the fancy kit to stop up both ends of the exhaust and I fitted a PSI gauge but the rusty patch blew out some pin holes so that didn't work. We made the best of it and went on a road trip and enjoyed the day. A nice tractor parade came by this morning. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Part One of lower rebuild of a 1978 305ci. Bearings, oil pump and other stuff coming soon. OEM GM oil bypass came out with just a flick of a fingernail. Tapped & Plugged with 1/4 NPT anodized well... plug and JB Welded into place. You may wish to get an oil filter without a bypass built in if you're going in on this project. Super clean rear bearing cap and oil pump mount. New Summit oil pan is solid but a bit more shallow but I don't think the oil loss is that great and it may make it easier to fit in a tight spot. Decided to leave "hidden" oil plug up inside the block. Fill your new oil filter with oil before fitment? Yes for me but that's up to you but it will take much longer to prime and fill the system. Using the "ZERO" function on a digital caliper to help figure some types of measurements. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

This seems to be a somewhat common problem but make the best of it. The new hydro oil has no dye so you may wish to put some in so you can see it on the site glass. The seal here is John Deere Part #: CH13163. Also a good time to check your bearings. New Kitty in the back yard and a cool lighting event! Just havn' fun! Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

I was given this fan and it is an inside only fan so I put it on the front porch - do not do this. This is a pure farmhouse job. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Hens Too. I tried every way I could think of sealing this pond. Tar, trash bags, BenSeal and I don't know what else. The only way was a new liner. Last day for some hardworking overalls and I do a strip show! Water kept pressing out from other the new liner so that's why it needs to set for a time before I can go to trim work. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Time for a total brake system going over. Total fluid flush with a vacuum system, figuring out how the banjos on the lines seal, the left rear caliper slide pins were solid rusted and had to be beaten out. This ended up being a most of the day job. We had a nice test drive and the system now doesn't need a double pump. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Went to town to get top lock nuts for the axle U-Bolts and instal. Pulled the oil pan to see how the bearings look. New rear main will be fitted and oil pan. Pulled the oil pump as this will all be replaced and blueprinted. This will be a long project over several parts. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

There was no rubber hose to the axle T fitting so I fitted one. I found some missing Y-Bolt Nuts so this happed for the best. Found a way to get the motor to sit higher in the back to take the stress off the distributor and free the tranny dips stick tube - not crushed so hard against the right valve cover. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

This is a great starter. The bolts, even the correct ones, are loose and that can cause the pinion gear to the flex place/flywheel to be off. Just some electrical tape is all you need to make double dog sure the starter stays in place. This starter required no shims. Easy to fit and wire but I had to rotate the starter to get it away from the header and that was a task getting that 5mm bolt out. It also caused the cover to rub but that was easy to fix. Nothing too hard overall and does it ever start better. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

I toyed with an externally regulated alternator but just gave up on that. I got the VR103T Standard box but just decided to go with what I know. 1/R with 2/F with the 2/F going the the battery to excite the alternator and the 1/R going to the smart light on the facia/dash. Road Trip to test 4 old alternators and one was so bad it wouldn't even start the test. One Denso with the S,IG,L & FR and I like that it works but don't have a place for it now. A look at the special tool drawer, brake fluid with lumps! Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Alternator "Problems" as I try to learn 1960's charging systems.1970 Triumph Spitfire, 1964 Pontiac Bonneville mixed and matched. D680, D668, 70 amp diodes 334-2110, C635, VR103T, 194 bulb, Lisli 22800 Trico 13-1 black hot glue sticks, Don't bust your windscreen and I'm kinda thinking the 3 wire (with and earth) system on this baby. I just made a double mess and fail but we'll get em!!! Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching

Some othr playing around with the Jaguar E-Type, Bonnie was a not start from bad starter, Akebono pads, DOT 3/4 Syn Brake fluid, grease points found, OEM lug nuts need to go and a nice test drive. Please only do what I do at your own risk. I have some information on Odysee too if you'd like to check that out and I also post these on Rumble and X. Thank You for watching