DIYForlife77

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The Complete Guide To DIY Bike Repair And Maintenance WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT There’s a feeling we all get when the trails are caked in mud and the ferns dripping like rain. Our inner child emerges and mountain biking becomes a whole lot more exciting. We return from a day of riding with dirt flecked grins and bikes in a matching brown. Though unfortunately, our mountain bikes aren’t so happy after a day of smashing them through the sodden trails. Cleaning and maintaining your mountain bike is so essential, not only are they exposed to some nasty weather, but we send them down some gnarly terrain. It’s a surprise these bikes can function after such a beating, let alone perform at their optimum time and time again. But the reality is, who the hell wants to pay exorbitant prices each time they need their bike serviced? If you’re serious about mountain biking, it’s time you learned the basic bike repair and maintenance tasks so you can save your money for your next upgrade. I won’t lie, not all bike repairs are easy. And not all can be done at home, but if you show your mountain bike a little love and care, you can avoid most visits to the mechanic and increase the longevity of your bike. WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT These are some things you can do to keep your bike happy and your pockets full. I just want to send a massive shout out to both GMBN and Park Tool for putting together a massive amount of helpful videos for everyone to learn and benefit from! And it’s these videos that I have used below to assist in explaining the bike certain DIY bike repair tasks. Sending a big whip over a big step down at Stromlo MTB Park mountain biking in Canberra Table of Contents Cleaning Your Bike Ok, this first one is obvious and you may think it not necessary to discuss. But if you learn how to clean a bike correctly, you mightn’t need to know how to fix a bike as a result. If you neglect your bike, over time dirt will work itself into all of the wrong places causing components to wear and fail a hell of a lot quicker than usual. And through the simple act of cleaning, you’d be surprised with how many mechanical problems you can find and address before they become bigger bike repair issues. So how do you clean a mountain bike? I’m going to start with what not to do… Do not grab a high-pressure washer and try to blast the mud off. In doing so, there is a chance you’ll blast more than just dirt. Using high-pressure washers can force grease out of the bearings, resulting in them failing prematurely. And in extreme circumstances, can cause irreversible damage to seals. All your bike needs is a light spray from a garden hose to remove any caked-on mud. And if the trails are bone dry, you can skip the hose entirely and start with the next step… Remove Wheels – Using a bike stand, suspend your bike off the ground at a comfortable height and remove both front and rear wheels. This allows for easier access to the hard to reach areas of the frame, while also making it easier to clean your wheels. If you don’t have a bike stand, don’t stress, flip your bike upside down so it’s resting on the seat and handle bars. WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT Brush Off Loose Dirt – Grab a brush and wipe away as much of the dirt as possible. Utilise as many different shapes and sizes as you want to get into all the nooks and crannies. Heck, get the toothbrush out if you feel the need. I find that in most cases, the dust and dirt will fall off with ease – mud excepted. This is where the hose will come in handy, and if you chose to spray your bike down, you can miss this step. Brushing down a mountain bike while cleaning to avoid any bike repair and maintenance Apply Bike Wash – Use any old spray bottle to apply bike wash directly to your frame. Generally, a mix of warm water and mountain bike-specific bike wash works best. Wipe The Bike Clean – Using a soft cloth or rag, wipe your bike down from top to bottom. Make sure to get into all of the crevices surrounding your bearings, linkages, and suspension. Focus with great detail on the derailleur and chainring as you want to clear all of the gunk from your precious drivetrain components. Polish The Frame – Here’s where you need to take care. Polish is great, it’s what creates the wow factor and makes your mountain bike shine, but get it on your brakes and it’s game over for your brake pads. The easiest way to implement the polish is to spray it on a clean rag and wipe it over the bike. This reduces unwanted spray. Clean Your Wheels – Following the exact same method as above, minus the polishing step, brush and wash down your wheels. Make sure you give your cassette a healthy soaking and scrub it with a hard bristle brush before wiping it clean with a rag. I generally steer clear of the brake rotors, but if you get a bit of bike wash on them don’t stress, it won’t affect your pads like polish. But if you really want to wipe them down, isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) is your best friend. Clean and lube Your Chain – The final step is to remove as much dirt and grime from your chain as possible and it’s as easy as ever. Re-install both wheels and shift to a mid gear. Using a rag soaked in isopropyl alcohol, pedal the chain backwards and firmly rub down the chain. Make sure to contact each side of the chain and clean as thoroughly as possible. The chain will dry up rather quickly and then it’s time to lube it. Pedal the chain backward once again and this time, apply your chain lube. After you’ve given it a healthy dosage, wipe the excess off with a rag and you’re good to go. There are specific chain cleaners out there but, to be honest, a rag and rubbing alcohol does as good a job as any. So save your hard-earned cash. how to apply chain lube on a mountain bike to avoid any bike repair and maintenance tasks Inspect And Maintain Your Bike Inspecting your bike should become a ritual every time you clean it and before you ride. Most of us take these machines for granted and just expect they will perform to their fullest potential time and time again. But what if it doesn’t? What if something fails when you’re flying down a gnarly descent? That thought alone is enough to scare me into checking over my mountain bike regularly. And it should be for you too. You’ll be surprised what you can pick up visually, if you pay attention. You’ll most likely come across loose or broken components in the cleaning phase, but in case you missed something, here is where you need to look at the finer detail. And the best part, these checks will only take up 5 minutes of your time. There are many things that can go wrong on a mountain bike, but with basic bike repair skills, you’ll be able to pinpoint and narrow down the problem. Mat Walker looking calm and collected on Air Ya Garns big jumps in Blue Derby Tasmania Check Tightness Of Bolts Over time, under the harsh conditions we put our beloved mountain bikes through, it’s not uncommon for screws and bolts to work loose. It’s just physics. But there is a simple task that we can do to reduce the risk of losing a bolt on the trails – and perhaps save a massive bike repair job. Check the tightness of screws and bolts. You don’t need to check every single screw every single day, a little bit of common sense has to come into the equation. But checking over the main bolts, ones under the most duress, should indeed become second nature and these include: Axles Main Pivots Cranks Rear shock mounts Headset and handlebars Derailleur mount Shifter mounts In the process of checking your mountain bike’s bolts, take care not to overtighten them. In doing so, you may strip the head of the screw and cause a massive headache. WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT You don’t need to apply excessive force to check the integrity of the bolt, just a quick firm pinch is more than enough. If the bolt doesn’t move, it’s tight enough. If it moves under a small amount of force, you’ll need to tighten it to an appropriate level. Most screws will have a preferred torque setting displayed which should be used as a guide for tightening. In the case you find a loose bolt, make a mental note and next time around be sure to thoroughly test the same one. This is a basic procedure and one that can be performed by anyone. DIY Bike Repair and maintenance header Check Your Gears Are Shifting Properly Sure, you can put up with imperfect shifting, but what you’re actually doing is far worse than you think. Grinding through gears will wear your drivetrain components at an exponential rate. When your gears shift swiftly and accurately, minimal stress is placed upon the chain and other wearing parts. But when your chain drags or skips between gears, more force is placed on each component with each impurity, causing them to wear faster than they should. Your cassette, chain, and chainring’s life can be reduced drastically, so getting your shifting back on track should be of the highest priority. There are many reasons your gears may be shifting poorly but, through my experience, here are the most common faults… Sram X01 drivetrain mountain bike Reasons Your Gears Could Be Shifting Poorly Bent Derailleur Hanger Perhaps the most common cause of improper shifting is a bent derailleur hanger. And if you have no idea what I’m talking about, don’t stress – this is an easy one. The derailleur hanger is a small alloy component, unique to each bike model, that connects the derailleur to the frame. This is used to set the exact location of the derailleur for efficient shifting. These hangers are made from soft, easily malleable material so that in the event of a crash or hit, the hanger will bend instead of the derailleur. This is super beneficial as a derailleur is bloody expensive! To check if your derailleur is bent, the easiest method is to eyeball it. Looking straight down over the cassette, you should see a perfect straight line between the cassette and derailleur. If you don’t, you’ve most likely bent your hanger. Inspecting a derailleur for correct cable tension while checking for bike repair tasks To straighten your hanger, remove your derailleur and use a large shifter or multi-grip tool to slowly bend it back into position. There are hanger tools that are designed for this exact procedure and they do make the job easier, but they are expensive and, in most circumstances, not worth it. I’ve had success with a shifter many times, it may not be perfect but it’s close enough for my drivetrain to run smoothly again. The best part about a hanger is if you fail at getting it straight, a replacement will be cheap and generally easy to come by. Just be sure to buy the correct one! Incorrect Cable Tension Over time and for no apparent reason, you may notice your gears begin to shift very poorly. Don’t be too alarmed if this has started happening, it is normal wear and tear on a mountain bike. Your derailleur operates via a small wire cable and over its life, this cable will begin to stretch. The most common symptom of a stretched cable is your gears beginning to skip and struggle to shift into a lower gear. The best way to check for cable stretch is, again, to eyeball your derailleur. Only this time, look directly behind the cassette. If your cable has indeed stretched, you’ll see that the lower leg runs parallel to the teeth on the cassette – but not in line. If your lower leg is sitting slightly towards the next highest gear (towards the right), more tension is required on the cable. Checking a bike derailleur for correct tension to avoid major bike repairs To apply more tension to the cable, there is a simple barrel adjuster on the output of your gear shifter. Turning the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise will increase the tension on your derailleur and slowly shift it into the correct position. The aim is to align it as best you can by working in small increments until you get that drive chain shifting swiftly again. If you run out of adjustment on your shifter barrel, you can achieve more tension on the cable by releasing the locking screw on the derailleur and manually pulling the cable through. Just remember that the derailleurs are spring operated and if you release that screw with tension on the spring, it will quickly snap back and could severely injure your fingers. If you reach this point on the barrel adjuster, it’s a good sign that the inner cable has reached its lifespan and should be replaced. Drivetrain Components That May Need Replacing If you can’t fix your gears with the above quick checks, you may need to replace a component or two. The two main components that will need to be changed is the inner cable and the chain. These are things you can do yourself… How To Replace An Inner Cable It’s not as difficult as you may imagine to replace an inner cable and as long as you’ve got a couple of tools, it can be done easily at home following these 10 steps. Shift your gears to the highest gear (smallest cog) and relieve tension from your derailleur by pushing down on the bottom leg and engaging the clutch. Undo the cable tension screw on the derailleur. Remove the shifter from the handlebar mount and remove the top cover. Make sure it’s the correct side!! If you remove the bottom cover, the entire shifter assembly will fall to pieces and is almost impossible to put back together. Use a small screwdriver to extract the nipple of the cable and then slide the old cable out, paying close attention to the cable routing on the derailleur and shifter. Slide the new cable through the housing following the same route and leave plenty of length, you will trim the excess at the end. Make sure the inner cable is seated correctly before you put the cover back on and once you’re happy with its positioning, mount the shifter back onto the handlebar. Wind the barrel adjusters all the way in. This allows you to add small increments of tension later to fine-tune the derailleur. Firmly pull tension onto the cable by hand and tighten the locking screw on the derailleur. You don’t need to pull with all your strength, this will only result in too much tension on the cable. Check to see if you can shift through the gears smoothly. Don’t stress if you can’t, no one gets it spot-on first go. If your gears are shifting but need small adjustments, try winding the barrel adjuster out to achieve the correct tension. If you’re a mile out, you’ll need to loosen the derailleur screw and re-tension the cable by pulling more or less through. Repeat the tensioning process until your gears all shift swiftly. It can be a frustrating process but the best method is to be patient, make small adjustments and slowly get the derailleur shifting perfectly. Gear Required To Replace An Inner Cable Allen key Small screwdriver Inner cable Cable cutters How To Replace A Cable Housing Sometimes the reason your inner cable is sticky and doesn’t work properly is due to a bad cable housing. Over time, dirt and dust can work their way into the housing, creating too much friction for the cable to slide smoothly. Along with dirt, the metal section of the outer can sometimes be exposed to water and cause rust to build. With any of these issues, the most common area affected will be at the extreme ends of the cable. So if the housing is long enough, you may be able to get away with just trimming the end and installing new end caps. But if that doesn’t work, a new housing is in order. For frames with external cable routing, this job is simple. So I’ll explain how to replace an internally routed cable (a cable that runs through the frame). There are several methods to join the two housings together, but I’ve found using Park Tool’s dedicated kit to work best. Once the inner cable is removed (see steps above), the process to replace the outer cable is quite simple. Remove the end caps from the housing. Using the Park Tool IR1 internal routing kit, screw the end of the nipple into the top of your housing and tape it for extra security. Make sure a solid connection has been made by giving it a firm tug. You don’t want the connection to pull apart in the middle of the frame. Working with both hands, push and pull the housing through the frame until the old housing is completely removed and the routing cable is visible. Take care not to yank at a snagged housing. Work the cable through as gently as possible. Remove the old housing from the internal routing kit wire. Install the new housing onto the end of the internal routing kit wire (following the same method as above). Again, test for a solid connection. Gently pull the new housing through the frame until both ends have plenty of length. Carefully measure the correct length and cut your housing to size. Install the end caps and then continue to re-install the cable (see the above process of how to replace an inner cable) Gear Required To Replace A Cable Housing Internal cable routing kit You can achieve this task without a dedicated kit, but the chances of success are far greater when using one. New cable housing Allen key Small screwdriver Inner cable Cable cutters How To Replace A Chain Another component that is a common culprit for your gears shifting incorrectly is your chain. WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT You may not think it, but the chain may well be the single most important part of your mountain bike. It is responsible for delivering power to your rear wheel and, in turn, propelling you forward. The stress that is placed on a chain is ridiculously high. The power of your legs and mechanical leverage adds a huge amount of force, causing your chain to stretch over time. If it’s not replaced when this happens, the chainring and cassette can be damaged in the process. And in extreme cases, the damage could cause these components to fail when coupled with a new chain, meaning you’ll need to replace the chainring and cassette as well. There are chain gauges to check your wear and these are relatively cheap, but if you don’t want to buy any tools, I’d suggest making it a yearly task to replace your chain. Though this time will vary depending on how often you ride. The actual process of replacing a chain is simple and with a little care, can be completed with ease. Remove tension off the chain by engaging the clutch on the derailleur. Either release the quick link or break the chain with a chain breaker. Remove the old chain, paying attention to the routing so you know where to install the new one. Measure the new chain against your old one to determine the correct size (you can count the links to double-check). Use the chain breaker tool to break the new chain to the correct size, ensuring both ends are inner links. Route the new chain through your derailleur, following the same path as your old chain. Depending on the brand of chain you have, either install the master link or press the rivet into position. Be aware that if your chain is in really bad condition, it will have stretched up to a link or so. This is why it’s good to always check the amount of links as well as measuring by sight. Gear Required To Replace A Chain Chain breaker tool Master link pliers Chain specific to your bike How To Repair A Broken Chain On The Trail Ahh yes, the walk of shame… I still remember my first time. No one needs the humiliation of having to walk home from anywhere… especially not the bike park. But if you break your chain on the trails, unless you’re prepared, chances are you’ll be marching. Breaking a chain can be the result of a number of things; poor maintenance, shifting under heavy load, or just plain bad luck. And if you’re an avid mountain biker, sooner or later you’ll find yourself in this predicament. The good news is, repairing a broken chain is an easy on-trail bike repair and minimal tools are required. To repair the chain, first you must remove the damaged link completely. In most cases, only one side of the link will break and to keep the chain the correct length, you must break the other side of the link with your multi-tool. Push out the rivets of the broken link, both outer plates of the chain should fall away freely, leaving you with two inner links. Insert the quick link by sliding it through the rivet holes and connecting it together. Don’t try and fully seat the link yet, there is a trick for that. *Remember some links are directional so it is important to install it correctly. In the case of Sram, the curve of the quick link should mirror the curve of the chain ring and cassettes. Rotate the chain so the link is at the top, hold the rear brake and put weight onto your crank. This should snap your quick link into position. Finally, shift through each gear and check that your chain is running smoothly. Quick links are only recommended as a temporary fix, meaning you should replace your chain soon after the on-trail bike repair. But in my experience, the quick links are super strong and reliable. I ran with an extra quick link for 6 months before replacing my chain due to wear and tear. Gear Required To Fix A Broken Chain On The Trail Chain breaker (best to carry a multitool such as the Crankbrothers M19 which has a chain breaker fitted) A quick link specific to your chain How To Convert To Single Speed There is one final option that can get you out of trouble in the event of a chain failure and that is to convert you bike to a single speed. Though this is something you should never hope to do. This is a last resort fix you’d only consider for those remote adventure trails where walking really isn’t an option. The idea is to remove all of the shifting capabilities of your bike and rely solely on one gear in the event of: A derailleur broken beyond repair A severely damaged chain where several links are beyond usable A broken chain resulting in losing a larger section of links As I said, this is a last resort bike repair technique and it is designed to limp a rider home. Break the chain with a chain breaker tool and pull it out of the derailleur. Remove the derailleur from your frame. You will also need to remove the shifting cable from your derailleur by undoing the locking screw. You can get by without removing your derailleur, but it makes the process harder and can impede on the new setup. Select your gear. It is best to select a mid-range gear in order to align the chain as straight as possible between the cassette and chainring. Re-route the chain around the chainring and cassette only. Remember to avoid the derailleur if you left it attached to your bike. To measure the chain, make sure it is seated correctly on the cassette and chainring and pull the broken chain together. Select the two closest inner links as a joining point and break the chain to length. Join the chain together with a quick link (see steps above) and give the bike a test ride. A chain too taught will make it extremely hard to pedal, whereas a chain too loose will continuously fall off. If you manage to get your bike in a condition to slowly ride home, your job is done. Unfortunately, a single speed conversion like this is extremely difficult to achieve on a dual suspension bike. Rear suspension effectively changes the length of your chain stay, making it almost impossible to measure the chain correctly. Even if you manage to get it close, expect the chain to fall off several times on your way home. Check Your Tyres Tyres are something that many people forget to check, but they are one of the most important things to keep in top condition as your tyre is the sole point of contact you have with the terrain beneath you. Daily checks can make all the difference between a reliable bike and a wheel damaged beyond repair. And the best part is that these checks are super simple. Constantly testing your tyre pressure will ensure that your tyres are not only reliable, but also provide maximum grip to suit your riding style as well. Though pressure plays an important role in reliability and grip, it’s not the only factor. You need to check the wear of your tyre and replace them if necessary. Not only does the compound diminish on worn tread, causing less grip, but the sidewalls will thin and make the tyre more prone to puncture. Replacing your tyres when they’re due is going to provide more traction and save you from some some hairy predicaments. But in the case you waited too long, or are just unlucky, here is the steps to fixing a flat out on the trail. Sending a rock drop on Krushkas descent in Blue Derby mtb trails Tasmania Fixing a Flat Tyre Learning to fix a flat is a right of passage every mountain biker needs to pass before being taken seriously. It’s not a matter of ‘if’ you’ll get a flat one day, it’s a matter of when. And luckily, it’s easy. There are several ways to fix a puncture and the method you use will depend entirely on whether you’re riding with tubes or a tubeless setup. How To Repair A Tubeless Tyre Some people are under the notion that tubeless tyres are invincible. And while they are generally less puncture prone than tubes, they’re far from perfect and knowing how to repair a tubeless tyre is an essential bike repair skill. There are several different tools you can purchase to plug a tubeless leak but, in my experience, nothing compares to the Slug Plug. These are extremely easy to use and super effective in sealing a leak. Here’s how to use them. Find the leak in your tyre and assess the hole. If it’s a pin hole or small tear, this can be repaired with a slug. If the leak is coming from a large tear or is located on the bead, unfortunately a slug will not work. In these circumstances, a tube will be required. Remove the slug from the package. Slide the slug through the open end of the pick tool so it sits roughly half way. Jam the pick into the hole in your tyre, leaving about half of the plug protruding. This may be quite difficult, so don’t be afraid to get a little rough. Twist and pull the pick back out. This should leave the slug in place and seal the hole. If the hole doesn’t quite seal, make sure to rotate the tyre so sealant can assist. You can also massage the tyre to try and create a seal around the slug. Pump the tyre back up to your desired PSI, keeping an eye on whether you lose any pressure. The idea of this process is that the remaining sealant and slug plug will patch the hole and hold pressure. Though if the hole is too big or you’ve sliced the tyre, the slug plug won’t work and you’ll have to move onto inserting a spare tube instead. Gear Required To Repair A Tubeless Tyre Tubeless repair kit – Slug Plugs, Dynaplug, ect… Tube – In case the tyre won’t seal Trail pump How To Replace A Tube Even when you’re riding with a tubeless set up, it’s always important to carry a spare tube with you for those inevitable flats that can’t be fixed with a seal repair. First you’ll need to take the wheel off your bike. Release all of the air out of your tyre. Pull one side of the tyre off the rim. You can usually do this by hand but if you have a thick casing tyre, this can be impossible. If this is you, carrying at least one tyre lever is important. Remove the old punctured tube and inspect the tyre for any foreign bodies that may have caused the deflation. Install the new tube. A trick to make this easier is to slightly inflate the tube before installing it. I start by placing the valve in the hole of the rim and loosely applying the lock nut. From there work the tube around the inside of the tyre being careful not to twist it. Once the tube is in place, begin to massage the tyre back onto the rim. Be careful not to pinch the tube in the process, especially if you are using tyre levers to aid in the process. Here’s where inflating the tube slightly will make all the difference. When the tube is dead flat it is very easy to snag or jam it in the install process. Inflate your newly installed tube and check for leaks. Then re-install the wheel onto your bike and get on riding. Gear Required To Replace A Tube Spare Tube Track pump Tyre lever Tune Your Brakes You can result in a far better ride performance if your brakes are operating at full capacity and this doens’t mean only having new brake pads. There are a few ways to get the most out of your brakes and park tool have an awesome video train of how to achieve this. How To Replace Brake Pads Brake pads are the fastest wearing component on your mountain bike and perhaps the most important, because without them how the bloody hell do you stop!? If your brake pads are worn out, this needs addressing immediately as more damage can occur rather quickly. The term metal on metal isn’t a pun and if you allow your pads to completely wear out you will destroy your rotor. And yes, changing brake pads is one of the easiest bike repairs to perform, but the is a couple of tricks you’ll need to know. But before I even get into how to change your brake pads, I want to make one thing super clear… do not touch your brakes when you’ve not got any pads in them, you will lose all of the brake fluid and end up with a much bigger job. Trust me, I speak from experience… Remove the wheel. Remove the old pad by removing the small safety clip and unscrewing the retaining screw. Before installing your new brake pads, pry the pistons open. You need to push the pistons out so they sit flush with the calliper to ensure you new brake pad will fit over the disk. Unfortunately, this task can be rather frustrating. You can purchase brake pad piston presses to aid in the process, though a large flat blade screwdriver or needle nose pliers can do the trick. Install the new brake pads and secure them with the retaining clip or screw. Make sure not to overtighten as you can snap the small mounts. Re-install the wheel and pump the brakes a few times to seat the pistons correctly. Check for alignment. The rotor should spin freely in the centre of your pads. If it rubs, you’ll need to align it. To align your pads, loosen your brake calliper and wiggle it to free up the mounts. Squeeze the brake lever to clamp your pads onto the rotor, this will move the calliper to a centred position. Nip up the screws to secure the pads and then check if your rotor is rubbing once again. You may need to make slight adjustments to get it perfect. Finally, once your pads are aligned you need to bed in the brakes. To bed your brake pads in, roll at a steady pace and squeeze the brakes firmly for 1-2 seconds then release. Repeat this approximately 20 times and you’ll begin to feel a solid bite from the brakes. This process removes the outer coating of the pad used to extend storage life. If you fail to bed the pads in, your brakes will feel spongy and perform poorly. In extreme cases, the pads will glaze over making them utterly useless and new pads will be in order. WANT TO LEARN BIKE MAINTANCE THEN CLICK HERE FOR DIY BIKE REPAIR VIDEOS http://bit.ly/3U6RkXT

By age 22 my vision was so bad I was virtually blind without my glasses. You can get your hands the book that will change your life within the next 30 seconds, and start improving your eyesight today. CLICK HERE NOW FOR BETTER VISION bit.ly/3EMnNOz Life improved at first when contact lenses came along. But being forgetful as I am, I would too often leave my contacts on and fall asleep. The irritation in my eyes the next morning would be unbearable. It wasn’t long before I got fed up of constantly having dry and itchy eyes, so in the end I decided I was better off wearing glasses. How An Accident In The Backstreets Of Egypt Put Me On The Road To Learning How To Improve My Eyesight Naturally Back in 1999, a friend and I went on a trip to Cairo, Egypt. That’s where I met and fell in love with my wife, Diane. I met Diane through a friend at the hotel we were staying in. Diane and I arranged to meet for lunch at a boat by the Nile. I was on my way when it happened. A word of advice – don’t ever try to avoid a car in Egypt. The roads in downtown Cairo are crazy. The cars will swerve and avoid YOU. When I tried to avoid a car by running sideways, it hit me. My glasses went flying and I lost them. It didn’t help that I was alone and I didn’t speak much Arabic. Thankfully I was unhurt, or at least I hadn’t broken any bones. And I managed to find a helpful Egyptian man to walk me to the nearest optician’s. Unfortunately the optometrist didn’t speak much English. But he was very helpful. He examined my eyes and gave me a prescription for a new pair of glasses. He explained to me in Arabic that I would have to go to another optician’s to pick up my spectacles. I suppose he didn’t stock the thick lenses I needed at his small practice. I had no idea how I was going to make it to the other optician’s, because my eyesight was so poor without my glasses. The optometrist knew this too, and I didn’t expect he would help me. But I was wrong. He called in an English-speaking assistant. A tall woman wearing a headscarf. She led me through a series of eye-relaxation exercises. I couldn’t believe what happened afterwards! My eyesight improved to the point where I could just about make my way around without any help and without wearing glasses. The assistant told me to do these exercises daily and that my eyesight would improve over time. My eyesight improved considerably after just one session with these eye exercises. As soon as I came back home to the United States, I got straight on my P.C. and started learning everything I could on how to improve eyesight naturally. Before my experience in Egypt I hadn’t even thought it was possible to improve your eyesight without using glasses or having laser eye surgery. Now I had a chance to regain that complete care-free freedom in my life by improving my eyesight and getting rid of my glasses forever. So I went out there and learned everything I could. I managed to find several books on improving eyesight naturally and I devoured them. I spent thousands of dollars attending seminars on how to improve eyesight naturally. Many where here at home in the United States, but I also travelled to other countries like Egypt and India for a different perspective. Many of the techniques I learned were a down right waste of time, but there were a handful of techniques I learned that really worked well. When I started to apply the right techniques, my eyesight improved so much I was able to throw away my glasses in just a few weeks. My optometrist — who wears glasses himself — couldn’t believe it, and he still refuses to believe that I improved my eyesight naturally. I have since gone on to ‘cure’ both my parents and my brother of their short-sightedness. I have held seminars here in the United States, in India, Russia, France and Germany on how to improve eyesight naturally. There seem to be people all around the world willing to spend thousands just to learn the secrets I uncovered on my own painstaking journey to cure my eyesight. I now have my own little clinic where I help people improve their eyesight using the methods I discovered since my accident in Egypt. This way I can get feedback on the kind of techniques that work on different eye conditions. So far I have learned that my techniques work on the following conditions: Short-Sightedness (Myopia) Hyperopia (Far-Sightedness) Lazy Eye (Amblyopia) Cross-Eye (Strabismus) Eye strain Macular Degeneration Cataracts Astigmatism Presbyopia (Old-Age Sight) Glaucoma Light Sensitivity Poor Night Vision And More… If you are suffering from any of the above eye conditions, then you would benefit from what I have to show you. Whether you are wearing glasses already or your eyesight is getting worse and you think you may need glasses in the future… You can get your hands the book that will change your life within the next 30 seconds, and start improving your eyesight today. CLICK HERE NOW FOR BETTER VISION bit.ly/3EMnNOz

WANT TO LEARN DIY AUTOBODY REPAIR CLICK HERE http://bit.ly/3AtxX42 UV rays, age, and road debris all take their toll on your vehicle, eventually leading to fading or clear coat peeling. This makes your vehicle look uncared for. Paint shops will want to strip it all and repaint it, which takes weeks and costs thousands of dollars. There is a DIY solution to repair damaged clear coat yourself for a lot less money… WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Car Wash Supplies Sandpaper - Options Available Here Aerosol Clear Coat Spray Gun - Options Available Here Degreaser Masking Tape - Options Available Here Clean Microfibre Cloths - Option Available Here Rubbing Alcohol (isopropyl) Buffer Wax Use a degreaser to remove leftover polish and wax, and thoroughly clean the entire body panel with a good quality carwash detergent to remove any leftover degreaser and foreign contaminants which could mar the clear coat. Mask off the repair area with masking tape, applying about 2cm outside the damaged area. Using an 800 grit sandpaper, sand down the rough clear coat until you can’t feel it any more. Go lighter on the surrounding clear coat as you want to smooth and blend the damaged area, not remove more clear coat. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove any contaminants left by sanding. To spray new clear coat, shake the aerosol can for at least 60 seconds, then apply a light first coat. Overlap the application onto the entire sanded area, not just the damaged area. Let the first coat dry for five minutes, and respray. Wait another five minutes to see if it requires a third coat. If not, gently remove the masking tape at an angle away from the repair. Once the masking tape has been removed you will see that the repair is easily noticeable compared to the surrounding older clear coat. WANT TO LEARN DIY AUTOBODY REPAIR CLICK HERE http://bit.ly/3AtxX42 Depending on the temperature, humidity, and thickness of layers applied, you should allow the clear coat to dry anywhere from an hour to 24 hours before continuing. One fully dried, use 2000 grit sandpaper to wet sand and grind down the border of the repair, blending the new clear coat with the older clear coat. Remember, you are trying to blend, not remove layers. Finally, clean the area with rubbing alcohol, and polish with a buffer. Use a slow setting and light pressure. Wait a few weeks to cure completely before giving the area a wax. PREVENTING FUTURE CLEAR COAT DAMAGE Avoid automated car washes, they are your cars worst enemy. Avoid using generic/abrasive car wash products. Regular waxing can help prevent clear coat damage by placing a thin, invisible barrier between the clear coat the sun’s damaging rays. Apply paint protection film. A faded or peeling clear coat is too late to save with preventative treatments. Even using the best possible car-wash detergent and wax will result in a cleaner, better-looking exterior, but the damage is still easily visible. WANT TO LEARN DIY AUTOBODY REPAIR CLICK HERE http://bit.ly/3AtxX42

BECOME SELFSUFFCIENT OFF GRID CLICK HERE FOR YOU ULTMATE OFF GRID BOOK bit.ly/3TPjR3R Living off the grid can be extremely difficult, but also extremely rewarding. Few things are more in line with the spirit of American liberty than living completely unbeholden to the government and big corporations – and going off grid gives you that freedom. While everyone else is complaining about government overreach, corporate consumerism and Wall Street banksters, you’ll be moving your life away from the rat race. And when our economy, politics or social structure take a turn for the worse, you and your family will be in a far better position to weather the storm from your off-grid locale than your former neighbors. Off-grid living isn’t for everyone. But for those willing to make the extreme life change, it will lessen your growing dependency on income and increase your time spent with family. This guide will walk you through the reasons for an off-grid way of life, how to attain it, and the benefits of becoming the ultimate survivalist. How To Live Off The Grid: A Way of Life Off-the-grid living isn’t a minor modification to your way of life – it’s a way of life in and of itself. While you can be a survivalist and still maintain your 9-to-5 lifestyle, living off the grid is a full-time job and a radical departure from the wage-earning grind most Americans subject themselves to. You’re not just prepping for something big, reducing your spending or growing a little victory garden – you’re forgoing public services and providing for yourself. But before you start setting up your modern-day homestead, you’re going to have to think about some big questions: Will you be using electricity? If so, how will you be generating it? Where will you get water? Will you need to process or treat the water to make it potable? How much money will you need? Where will you get it from? How will you access the Internet if you still need it? How many people will be members of your community? How will labor be divided throughout the community? Will you be buying food, or growing and hunting it? How will your off-the-grid community be defended without law enforcement officers? As you can see, even looking at this list of questions can feel a bit daunting. And this is just to make an initial informed decision. Once you make the actual decision to go off the grid, it’s going to get a lot harder. Living off-grid has a lot of up-front investment required in terms of time, money and energy. But once you get the project up and running, you’re probably going to feel great about walking away from the rat race and connecting with the land. Picking Location and the Best States for Living off the Grid Off the Grid: A Guide to Self-Sufficient LivingSpeaking of land, the first question you have to answer if you decide to live off-grid is where you plan to do this. Nearly everywhere in the continental United States has something wrong with it in terms of living off grid. Some places are too dry, and some aren’t good for growing food. Other places are too close to cities, while others are in nuclear fallout zones. Some states have laws making gun ownership and off-grid living prohibitively difficult. And others are just too cold to sustain wildlife. So what should you look for when it comes to picking the three most important factors in off-grid living: location, location, location? Be at least a tank of gas from a highway. Research natural disasters that frequently befall areas you’re interested in. Look into less-common, but entirely probable, natural disasters. Read about nuclear fallout patterns. Nuclear war might not top your list of concerns, but you should at least be informed. Consider whether or not you want to be part of an existing community and where you can connect with one. If you plan to use solar power, make sure the area gets plenty of sunlight. No matter what your plans are, you’re going to need water. That means proximity to a river or stream, a good supply of groundwater or, at the very least, plenty of rain. Hunters should research local and state hunting laws. Friendly gun laws are an absolute must when it comes to living off-grid, which rules many states out. In general, a small-government culture will help keep you from being prosecuted for “stealing” rain water. Good soil is a must to grow your own food. Shelling out big money for land defeats the purpose, so look for cheap land. Basic considerations to make with regard to region and weather: Northeast: The Northeast is generally not considered for off-the-grid living because of government red tape, liberal culture and the fact that it’s just so darn cold. But more people are looking into New Hampshire (a libertarian mecca) and Maine (lots of empty space). Midwest: The Midwest / Great Lakes region suffers from some of the same problems as the northeast. Populations are high, areas are congested and there tend to be unfavorable laws for liberty-minded people. It’s also cold like the Northeast, though once you get out of the big cities, the population is much more sparse. The South: The South is hot and has a lot of rural areas for you to get away from people and grow your own crops. A conservative political climate means a more “live and let live” attitude, as well as little in the way of gun regulations. What’s more, southerners are known for their friendliness and there’s no survival asset more necessary than friendly neighbors. Great Plains: The Plains are the best place in America to grow cops, and you’ll find no shortage of fish and game. However, the firearms laws are a mixed bag and there’s also a higher risk of flooding and tornados. Also, the Plains aren’t a great area for defense because of the flat terrain. Southwest: The Southwest has a great culture of liberty, however even in the best areas for growing food, there’s always a risk of drought. Northwest: Another area with a strong culture of liberty is the American Northwest, with plenty of wild game and wide open spaces. The gun laws will vary, but are mostly friendly. It gets cold in some places, but even in winters, there are parts that aren’t too frigid. Off-Grid Transportation Once you decide where you’re going to live, how will you get there? Access is likely not a problem in the middle of a big city or in a close-in suburb. But when you’re living off the grid, there may not even be a road that leads to where your home. A 4x4 truck is a necessity when living off grid, ideally an older truck that you can maintain and repair yourself with a basic set of hand tools. American vehicles are best, as GM parts tend to be cheapest, followed by Ford. You’ll want other forms of transportation as well for getting around your own property. Snowmobiles are a must if you’re living somewhere that gets a foot or more of snow on a regular basis. (Speaking of snow, how are you going to remove it? Snowplowing is going to kill your truck, so either use a secondary vehicle or look for someone who can do it for you, either for cash or for barter.) Motorcycles can be great for getting in and out of town or around your own property when the weather is warm and you don’t have much to carry. They’re easy to maintain and don’t use much gas. And don’t look past low-tech solutions for getting around, like bicycles and cross-country skis. You’ll burn calories and reduce the amount of chemicals you’re putting into the air. For the off-grid enthusiast who also wants to live a green way of life, this can be the best option to get you through 90 percent of your travels, depending on how far you are from civilization or how often you need to go there. Developing Your Own Off Grid Water System Water is the number one resource you’re going to need. That water needs to be clean, close and plentiful enough that you can access it year round for everything from drinking to watering crops. Fortunately, you have a variety of options when it comes to how you get your water. Drilling for a well can be expensive, but it’s a safe and reliable way to make sure you always have enough. Springs and surface water are other sources, but are obviously stationary. Rain water collection is unpredictable and melted snow is not a year-round option in most areas. The best plan will combine two or more of these. For example, you can drill a well, but be able to locate groundwater within a one-mile radius. Another option is to build your home near a stream and know where there’s a mountain with snow caps nearby. Having as many irons in the fire with regard to water is always a good idea. Off Grid Food: Grow It, Gather It, or Hunt It Off the Grid: A Guide to Self-Sufficient LivingCrops are a must when living off grid. And much like water, it’s important to have multiple ways to access food. That means three main sources: growing, gathering and hunting. Growing: What you can grow varies from one place to another, as does when you can grow it. Knowing the ideal climates for the production of a variety of foods is essential for having enough to eat. Pest Problems: Everything from insects to deer are likely to get to your crops before you do. Preventative measures, natural pesticides and physical deterrents like fences are going to help ensure that you eat most of what you grow. Watering: Having enough water for yourself isn’t enough – you also need to get water to your crops. Gathering: The good news is there’s probably plenty of edible food growing near where you live – that includes nuts and berries, but also honey and other fruits. You should know where to gather food as a supplementary source, as well as a source for calories in the event of a catastrophe. Shopping: Living off the grid doesn’t ban you from engaging in commerce, it just means that you’re not relying upon the power and water grid for supplies. Visiting the local farmer’s market can fill in the gaps in your food supply, and also allows you to make friends and allies in the local community. Hunting and Trapping: Wherever you choose to live will almost certainly have its own wildlife for you to trap and hunt – and a single elk goes long way. Since freezers are not an option, you’re going to have to learn how to store food without that level of energy impact. Fishing: If you’re living off-grid, there’s a good chance you have a body of fresh water near you. And that means a nearly endless supply of food. Although there are various survival fishing strategies, opting for a passive style frees up your time while providing an easy-to-harvest dinner. Domesticated Animals: You can also keep animals both for slaughter and for other purposes. For example, goats are an excellent supply of milk as well as free range, organic lawn-mowers. Turkeys, ducks and chickens all provide meat and eggs, with the last being your own personal alarm clock on top of that. Bartering: For those who want to use as little cash as possible, there’s bartering. This can be essential for getting crops you won’t be able to grow yourself, like coffee, tea, spices, wheat, salt, nuts and others. Bartering partners, much like the people you meet at the farmer’s market, can be valuable allies in the event of any major catastrophes. Once you have the food, now you need to store it. As noted above, standard electric refrigerators are out. Solar-powered refrigerators are expensive to set up, but inexpensive to run. Propane-powered fridges are both expensive to set up and to operate. Home canning and cellars can work to preserve what you don’t hunt or trap. Otherwise, smoking, pickling, salting and drying are what people did before refrigeration existed and is what you’ll have to do now. When it comes to cooking, electric stoves are also off the table. Wood stoves and fireplace inserts are common solutions (and are also great heat sources), as is cooking through heated pellets. Off the Grid Clothing Clothing is a topic that most off-the-grid guides ignore. You have a few different options here, such as stocking up and storing clothes for the future. However, a lot of the same skills that are required for feeding yourself can also keep you clothed. For example, you can always wear what you hunt. Even if you don’t want to run around in deer skins, you can make shoes, jackets and belts out of the skin obtained. What’s more, llamas and alpacas provide very warm fur that you can wear without even killing the animal. Many of those living off the grid opt for the middle road: Buying the cloth and making it at home. Again, a lot of this comes down to how far off the grid you’re trying to live. Off Grid Home Protection Systems + Tips While weapons and ammo are a must, the more immediate threat to yourself and your family is not from armed invaders – it’s from the elements. Off-grid homes come with a special concern: They need to be impenetrable not just to the elements, but to the critters who will be wandering around. From little guys like squirrels to big beasts like bears, your off-grid home should be protected pests of all sizes. Most of the animals are totally harmless, but the issue is that they’re going to be a nuisance – especially when they start eating you out of house and home. And no matter how much you love the nanny goat giving you milk, chances are pretty good that you don’t want her hanging out in your living room. Nearly everyone who goes into off-grid living is going to be building, or at least designing, their home from scratch. That gives you significant control over your home’s design, here are some things for you to consider as you build a home suitable for off-the-grid living: Your home should be able to withstand any natural disasters commonly occurring in the area. Especially if you’re a prepper, remember that human catastrophes are far more dangerous than natural ones. Make your home as impenetrable as you possibly can, with sturdy doors and locks. Include space for storing food, weapons, water and other necessities in the event that society breaks down for a few hours – or a few years. Remember to plan for all the equipment you’re going to need; keep in mind that water filtration systems and generators take up a lot of space. No off-grid living situation is going to be complete without a barn and a workshop/garage. Living off the Grid Means Defending Yourself Off the Grid: A Guide to Self-Sufficient LivingWhen you’re building defenses for your off-the-grid home, your chances of being a victim of crime drop to approximately zero. Most crime takes place in big cities and congested areas like New York City or San Francisco. And even those cities have been made relatively safe through a combination of gentrification and police work. Your concern is less common criminals than the roaming hoards of a post-apocalyptic wasteland. Planning for the zombie apocalypse is more of a concern for you than protecting yourself from a home invasion by a local gang. So what are you going to need to protect yourself and your home? At a minimum, you’re going to need four firearms. However, you might find that, like golf clubs, more is better: Bolt-Action Rifle: This is the gold standard for putting food on the table and shooting targets at a very distant range. They’re also easy to clean and to maintain. Shotgun: The shotgun is primarily a home defense weapon that’s going to help you to maintain your homestead against intruders, armed or otherwise. Semi-Automatic Rifle: A semi-automatic rifle with a large magazine capacity is essential for defending your home and your family against large groups of intruders. Handgun: It’s good to have a weapon on you at all times if you can, as you never know when danger is going to strike. That’s what a handgun is for. Of course, none of your firearms are going to be any good without a supply of ammunition to keep you locked and loaded. How much do you need? Having 1,000 rounds of ammunition for each firearm isn’t a bad start. For all of your magazine-fed weapons, keep about half a dozen for each. Hopefully all you end up shooting are game, paper and beer cans. But remember, when you’re off the grid, you need to be more prepared. Preparation is key – not knowing how to use a weapon properly makes it about as effective as defending yourself with a paperweight. Protecting your property with non-lethal forms of defense is another important factor, but keep in mind that electricity use needs to be limited when living off the grid. Sentry systems and other security systems are great to have, but are too much of a drain on your power supply. At the very least, having a couple of dogs around to patrol the property is a good idea – not to mention a fun one. Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Bullmastiffs and other dogs bred to prevent poachers make the best sentries. They’ll disable an intruder without killing or mailing. In fact, Bullmastiffs were bred to pin attackers down. Off Grid Power, Plumbing, and Communication Remember that, even if the entire system does collapse, the primary purpose of your off-grid home is for living and having an enjoyable life with your family. So how do you make your off-grid house a home? FIrst, you need to remember the electrical challenges of being off the grid. The closer together everything is, the less electricity is required and the less you have to spend on heating your home. Also, a larger home costs more money to heat (and to build) – which is why you should keep your space compact. When it comes to off-grid living, less is more. Besides, the smaller footprint your house takes up, the more money you have for growing crops and other integral parts of living. Sit down and sketch out a floor plan. Even if you’re not an architectural designer, you’ll get some sense of what your home is going to look like. Electric Off the Grid: A Guide to Self-Sufficient LivingHere’s where things start getting complicated: You need to be able to get clean water in and waste water out. You need to have a warm place to hang your hat. And you probably need some kind of electricity. Like the saying goes, with great power comes great responsibility. The freedom that you’re going to enjoy will be great, but it’s going to require you to take responsibility for a lot of things you’re currently outsourcing to other people. Let’s start with power. You might decide to live like the Amish and have no electricity at all (if they can do it, why can’t you?). But let’s assume you want to live more relentlessly in the modern world. The first thing you need to do is figure out how much power you’re going to use. Then you can attempt one of the most complicated parts of living off-grid – assembling an off-grid electrical system. Add up wattages on all the appliances you plan to use and add 50 percent. You’re going to need that extra wattage capacity, unless you want everything to collapse when you tax it. A 6000W system is going to cover most power needs. Your power needs are going to add up quickly. Get used to only running one appliance at a time (even the humble toaster can eat up as much as 1500W). Some of the larger appliances such as water heaters, electric stoves and air conditioners just don’t exist in off-grid homes. That’s where you’re going to save enough to stay underneath the cap on your power supply. Now there’s the small question of how you get the power there in the first place. You’ve got a few options: Solar Panels: This is where you’re going to get most of your power. They get more affordable every year, so you can get a good amount of your power from this source. Unless you decide you want to live off-grid somewhere with no sun, this will do your heavy lifting for you. Windmills: If you live somewhere windy, this can be your workhorse – or it can fill in the gaps between the solar panels and the rest of your power needs. For the most part, these are going to be a supplement to a solar system. Generators: Generators run on propane, gasoline and diesel. And while they’re not a solution for most of your power needs, they’re a way for you to bridge the gap – especially when requiring more power than normal, like operating a water pump or going through a long cloudy spell without the juice to keep things running. Hydroelectric: If you have a stream or river running through your property, you’d be foolish to not have one of these onsite, helping you to power your home. Bicycle: Yes, you can generate electricity using a stationary bicycle – probably enough for your laptop and a CFL bulb (double that for a Tour De France cyclist). Plumbing First, make sure that you’re draining at the right angle to prevent clogging. Second, heating water with an electric heater is impossible, so you’re going to need something solar or something that burns a lot of propane. As with most off-grid living solutions, it’s going to be a mix of the two. Some people choose not to have plumbing at all. Communication Even though you’re not living among society, you’re probably still going to want to communicate with them. This means you’re going to need phone and Internet systems in your home. While most places off the grid have bad cell coverage, landline phones don’t eat any power up. In. Most boosters aren’t going to do anything to change that, which is why lots of people use satellite phones and Internet. The cost is coming down and efficiency is going up, but you’re going to be using more electricity and getting less privacy. Ultimately you have to make the call. Living off the grid is hard – especially when you’re getting started. But when you ask yourself if the life you’re living now is easy, you will realize the freedom that comes with being completely self-sufficient. Living off the grid means living for yourself, making you far better prepared for difficult times than you would be living in the city. BECOME SELFSUFFCIENT OFF GRID CLICK HERE FOR YOU ULTMATE OFF GRID BOOK bit.ly/3TPjR3R